Thursday, 23 May 2013 15:05

Pasquale Pulls Out

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Chilly challenges have proven too much for now for one of New Zealand’s most isolated vineyards – Antonio Pasquale’s Hakataramea Valley site.

 

The Italian-born and bred wine producer announced in April this year that, after 14 years of pioneering winemaking in North Otago, he is moving his energies – and economic input – to Northland, where he lives.

Pasquale immigrated to New Zealand with his family from northern Italy in 1997, so cool climate winemaking is nothing new to this farmer-turned-wine producer. But the isolation of Hakataramea and Waitaki most definitely were a challenge. Pasquale says the lack of infrastructure in the area scared him. So, too, did the lack of uptake for the white wines he produced there.

“Our Pinot Noir was very, very good but our whites were – and still are – the most exciting wines we make from there. I believe in those wines and think there is great potential for them but for now I am going to focus more on the north,” Pasquale says.

“The main reason for the move is my inability to compromise my taste of wine. This move is really based on the fact that, while the Waitaki as a region and a place has a lot of potential, I don’t think it has the people to get there at the moment,” says Pasquale.

He currently has a one hectare trial vineyard of Chardonnay at Russell, from which he plans to release the first commercial vintage of 2012 Pasquale Northland Chardonnay, in about 18 months. The 2013 vintage will be released three years from now.

“The grapes I have are showing me what’s possible to do in this climate and I am about to start shifting tanks and machinery north, and also to start planting some more grapes,” says Pasquale.

The vines he has planted at Russell so far include trials of Arneis, which he describes as being “a good wine, which has been getting a positive reception” but also one he is not convinced by yet, due to what he perceives as its relative lack of acidity.

“I also have Sangiovese, which looks promising. All my vines up here are going to be grown here in Russell at my vineyard.”

As for the deep south, Pasquale may keep grapes in the ground to see what happens in a place he describes as “still a work in progress”.

“The cool climactic edge in Waitaki, along with the limestone soils, makes the area ideal for wines of crispness, concentration and lasting minerality. Great wines can be made here but they may not be the ones everyone is trying so hard to produce right now.”

His investment in the region certainly proved his commitment to it; Pasquale had 100,000 vines and the valley’s first and only winery. He also garnered awards at wine  competitions everywhere from London to Asia and New Zealand.  

In contrast to Central Otago, Waitaki is far more isolated.

“There are a lot of great wineries in and around Queenstown that work because there is an international airport there, but in Waitaki we are very isolated, so there is not enough quantity and quality. The place is perfect for high quality grapes but it is based on quality and extremely low yields and I’m okay with that, but I have to recognize the fact that my wines cost a lot to me,” he says, adding that, “If you do everything by yourself, I suppose it’s fine but I don’t, so it’s not fine economically and doesn’t work right now.”

He admits to being disappointed in the lack of response to high quality whites from the area too.

“I believe the whites we made at Waitaki are amazing; so good, so mineral, but everybody is screaming for Pinot Noir, while I found the whites to be the most promising.” ν

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