Just what is orange wine?

Consumers tend to be creatures of habit when buying wine and many typically shop for something they already know and are comfortable with - varieties and styles that tick the boxes of reliability, value and safety. 'Modern' wines are clean and shiny in appearance and present aromas, flavours and textures that meet expectations and perceptions of quality. These wines are considered 'normal', and drive wine sales globally.

Orange wine does not fit neatly into these criteria and it is unlikely it ever will because it doesn't align with what is perceived as desirable in modern, classic wines. It looks different as well - apart from the orange, salmon or peach hues it can be a little cloudy in appearance (compared to modern bottled examples), it may smell a little odd, and it has a particular texture.

The flavour profile of orange wine is quite wide ranging and will depend (as with modern wine) upon the variety used and winemaking intervention. Some of the local examples I have tasted show acute stone fruit flavours laced with old flowers, some slightly 'grubby' herb notes, and even marzipan and spice. Because of the skin contact involved there will be plenty of texture and skin tannins to factor in which will add quite a bite (grip) for some varieties and less so for others. Compare discovering an orange wine that suits your palate to finding a version of Chardonnay that suits – it has to have the right balance, textures, complexity and finish.

If orange wine is something you haven't considered you're not alone. It may have appeared on the shelves at your favourite wine store, or somewhere on the list at a restaurant or bar you visit, but unless the staff or sommelier is happy to discuss or even provide you with a taste, you may not have been interested in trying.

So what exactly is it, and how is it made?

Orange wine is essentially a form of natural wine, which develops the orange colour due to being made without preservatives. It can be made from any white variety and incorporates a deliberate fermentation on skins followed by extended post ferment maceration – typically two weeks to several months. Pinot Gris is a favoured variety locally (2013 Sato Pinot Gris Central Otago) and seems to be suited to the method. With the berries having a pink colour already the colour will develop readily through an unavoidable oxidation phase, and the varieties own set of phenolic attributes will add to the texture in the finished wine. Pinot Gris also has an abundance of sugar (for RS and potential alcohol) to bring balance and longevity.

Varieties indigenous to particular countries are typically used in any Orange wines produced (for example Rkatsileli in Georgia). Here the use of seeds and stalks in the ferment is also a factor in the finished wine, and along with the fermentation vessel used. In Georgia the use of egg-shaped clay vessels (Amphora), lined with wax and buried in the ground to keep the ferment cool is part of the traditional process and still carried out. The rationale is that the combination of skin, seed and stalk tannins housed in the ferment and ageing vessel creates its own preservative components, along with high natural acidity from the grapes and any alcohol produced. The type of clay used is specific to the country and micro-oxidation occurs through the clay and lid - when racking of the wine is completed at various clarification points further oxidation events occur, contributing to the final flavour and colour. Tannin and acid levels are particularly high - this is 'old school' wine making and particular to Georgia, and continues to be in practice after many hundreds of years.

Twenty first century wine making incorporates the historical practices with additional knowledge and technology developed over the years. Many scientific and non-scientific approaches are now used including organic and bio-dynamically managed fruit, concrete egg fermenters, temperature controls, understanding the thresholds of flavour and texture release, yeast families, various oak products and the use of sulphur. Orange wine will always be dramatically different from modern wine - it is a specific style using a particular technique that has not changed and is what defines it.

Orange wine, of course, has its critics - the focus will be on dislike of the phenolics, volatile acidity, excessive oxidation, heavy unbalanced examples, too much tannin. All of these criticisms have merit if the comparison is with what is now accepted as modern and/or commercial winemaking - but it is, of course, comparing apples to pears. The context in which Orange Wine should be judged is alongside other Orange wines, and the aim should be identifying the best examples.

It has a role to play in the market and there is definitely enthusiasm for the category. Professional sommeliers carry much of the credit for introducing Orange wine into restaurants, showing their open mindedness to new styles and expressions in wine as well as investigating the versatility with food. While it is important to ensure the customers don't become the guinea pigs in the sommeliers' food and wine pairing experiments, Orange wine can add diversity to a wine and food programme. Commonly, it is one of the first topics I am questioned about when the subject of alternative wine styles is raised. Then follows - what does it taste like, is it any good, who makes it and where can I buy some? It raises a message about the consumer that I am continually reminded of – people remain curious about wine, like to explore new versions of wine and will generally be direct and honest if they do or don't like what you are trying to sell them

There is a notable downside to Orange wine in a restaurant - by the glass sales, volume sales and adding to the bottom line won't make a lot of money for the business. Particularly regarding by the glass sales, once opened it must be sold and drunk in that sales period as it will lose integrity quickly through rapid oxidation. I have yet to try an example that has maintained good quality overnight - even with argon gas or another preserver system in play.

When it comes to food and wine harmony using Orange wine - go bold on the food, to align with the boldness of the wine. Traditional rustic country fare such as wild game bird (pheasant, goose), stews, Shepherd's pie and perhaps a lamb leg roast with mash make for ideal pairings. At restaurants it will depend entirely on the style of food you are engaging in – try to avoid deep fried food, heat spices or delicate spices and anything with monosodium or food enhancers with any Orange wine. Options such as pan-seared salmon or an oily fish can work well. Umami ingredients in food such as miso and soy sauce are also good partners.

The internet has created a greater awareness of Orange, Natural and other alternatives to commercial wine options. For access to producers - both local and imported examples - start with a net search, or ask your local trusted Sommelier or retailer.

Supporters for Orange wine are likely outnumbered by the critics, and I suspect there are many readers of this article who have not yet engaged in the style. It is difficult for some to embrace the re-emergence of a wine style that has been made for centuries elsewhere in the world and with which they have no relationship.

For some it's simply outside their frame of reference for wine because it doesn't look, smell or taste like what they are used to, so they reject it out of hand. Of the many challenges for producers of Orange wine - one key question remains - how will they reach consumers to generate enthusiasm for the style, and how will they convince them it is worth the purchase dollars?

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