Central Otago is the southern-most winegrowing region in the world and New Zealand’s only true continental climate, located at high altitude.
All of these factors and more contribute to Central Otago’s stylistic typicity, the mojo that drives the wines and that impossible x-factor.
But delve a little deeper and hidden beneath this shroud of glamour are fingerprints that track back to certain aspects, certain soils, certain temperatures – certain sub-regions – of Central Otago.
Vines were first planted in the region – near Alexandra – some 150 years ago, but it was over a century later before the true potential for grape vines in Central Otago was realized. The likes of Rolfe and Lois Mills, Alan Brady, Ann Pinckney, Bill and Jill Grant, Verdun Burgess and Sue Edwards were the pioneers in the late 70s and early 80s, trialling different varieties in experimental plots that covered the different corners of Central – from Wanaka, to Alexandra, to Gibbston.
The first commercial release from the region was Alan Brady’s 1987 Gibbston Valley Pinot Noir. So, like the history of the region, the history of the wines is young and dynamic.
Pinot Noir comprises 70% of plantings, with the remainder primarily made up of Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Riesling. The area of Central Otago is loosely cornered and triangulated by those three sub-regions – Wanaka, Alexandra and Gibbston – with several more in between. Bannockburn, Cromwell, Lowburn, Pisa, Bendigo and Northburn make up the prominent sub-regions, with the lesser known but equally important sub-regions of Queensberry, Ardgour and Maori Pt Road rounding out the northern extremities of Lake Dunstan.
Alexandra
The southern-most winegrowing sub-region of Central Otago – and therefore the world – is Alexandra. Rugged schist tors are strewn across the landscape, which is also the driest in Central Otago (approx. 260mm MAR), experiencing massive diurnal variation. The sub-region and its vineyards are essentially split in two; those on the Earnscleugh side of the Clutha River, and those on the Alexandra side. The former are typically lower-lying terraces with shallow, sandy soils over river gravels, with the latter Alexandra side vineyards slightly higher up, with a bit more depth and loam. The wines are often fruity and spicy, rich in aromatics, with a lighter weight structure.
Bannockburn
Arguably the most famous sub-region of Central Otago and one of the most densely planted. On crossing the bridge over the Kawarau River, there are three options. Take your immediate left and head to the Cairnmuir side, drive a little way up the hill and turn right onto Felton Road, or continue up the hill and past the pub to the higher altitude vineyards.
All three sections of Bannockburn are unique in their own right, almost warranting a sub-sub-regional status. Altitudes range from 250-300m, with the highest GDD rating of Central Otago and warmest mean temperatures on the lower sites.
The Cairnmuir side and top sections are quite sandy and gravelly, whereas the Felton side has more loess and more depth to its soils. The result is more perfumed Bannockburn expressions from the lighter soils, with darker fruits, richness and body from the heavier soils.
Bendigo
Located ten minutes north of Cromwell is Bendigo Station. The unsealed Bendigo Loop Road forms a long arc across the bottom of the sub-region, with several side-road options to climb up to the higher terraces and hills. Very warm and very dry, the aspect and position of the vineyards provide extra sunlight exposure. Well protected from the southerlies, the northerlies have a tendency to rip through, particularly on the higher altitude blocks. The wines are dark fruited, with what have become tell-tale “Bendigo tannins”, providing structural tension.
Northburn
Opposite Lowburn, on the east side of the lake, lies Northburn Station next to Bendigo Station . Regarded and recorded as the most central point in New Zealand (greatest distance from either coastline), the sub-region is dry, hot and very sunny thanks to its north-western aspect. Planted in a wee amphitheatre, there is good protection from the prevailing winds (compared to other regions) and the altitude ranges from 200-250m. The soils are a mixture of worked sluicings, glacial washes and alluvial fans with loess atop schist and greywacke gravels. Similar in typicity to Bendigo, the wines have less aggressive tannins and a mixture of red and black fruits.
Cromwell
Rainfall here (approx. 400mm MAR) is a little higher than Bannockburn and Bendigo, despite only a short distance between sub-regions. This is mainly due to the closer proximity to the Pisa Ranges. It has historically been the windiest region, unprotected from the northerlies roaring down the lake or the southerlies biting up through the gorge. The soils and sites are mixed and individual (“the vagrant children”), though they typically comprise sandy gravels with a thin layer of loess, displaying “Bannockburnesque” qualities, with a smidgen more weight and savouriness.
Gibbston
The coolest and highest sub-region of Central Otago, also with the highest rainfall (approx. 600mm MAR). Gibbston is a narrow valley that sidles the Kawarau River with vineyards planted on both sides of SH6; flat on the bottom terraces, moving to gently rolling/sloping higher up. The Gibbston Back Road, as its name suggests, climbs up to the back of the region where the higher altitude vineyards are planted (peaking at 485m). Soils are made up of heavier loess deposits over schist rock and river gravels. The wines are often floral, red-fruit spectrum, with strong backbones of acidity.
Lowburn
Opposite Northburn on the west side of Lake Dunstan and just five minutes from Cromwell, the Lowburn valley lies nestled at the foothills of the Pisa Ranges. The altitude is moderate – a fraction higher than Cromwell – though significantly warmer than Cromwell. Rainfall is on par, even a little higher, however the soils are heavier, with thicker layers of loess over combinations of schist and greywacke gravels. The aromatics are typically upfront and quite ripe, with red and darker fruits of a moderate structure.
Pisa
Pisa encompasses a 15km stretch of vineyards on both sides of SH6, travelling from Cromwell to Wanaka, between Lowburn and Queensberry. Rainfall, temperatures and wind are all quite similar to Cromwell, though in recent times temperatures seem a tad warmer and the northerlies can be quite ferocious.
Interestingly, despite being such a vast land area, the number of viable sites is low given the lack of north-facing slopes. Soils are predominantly loess over schist and/or greywacke gravels. The wines are well structured, typically darker fruit and medium bodied.
Wanaka
The most northern sub-region and arguably the most picturesque, Wanaka is relatively small compared to the more densely planted pioneering regions. Cooler, wetter (approx. 600mm MAR), less sunny and more temperate – thanks to the influence of the lake and proximity to the ranges – it is also quite high up at over 300m altitude. Soils are again loess over schist gravels, however there are also small pockets of heterogenous mixed-particle soils from terminal moraines of glacial origins. The wines exude red fruit aromas, savoury qualities, structure and complexity.
Minor Regions
Queensberry, Ardgour and Maori Pt Road comprise the minor sub-regions at the northern end of Lake Dunstan, split between SH6 and SH8 by Maori Pt Road itself. Whilst the vineyards of Queensberry and Ardgour are relatively new plantings, some of the vineyards on Maori Pt Road are well established. Maori Pt Road and Ardgour are typically lumped in with Bendigo (the Ardgour Valley vineyards do sidle Bendigo Station) and Queensberry often with Pisa. However, these regions are unique in their own right, which is the reason for their separate inclusion here.
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