OPINION: Every vintage has it’s vagaries, and every season I am struck by how nimble viticulturists, winemakers and grape growers have to be, catching, or at least dodging, the curveballs nature throws.
Sometimes it’s the season that started so sweetly, with a fulsome flowering and benign summer, then a wallop of weather that turns harvest prospects on their head. This year, for some, it was a warm start that booted the season along, a cool summer that dragged it back, and a beautiful autumn that’s carrying the season home. Throw in every year’s array of challenges, from disease pressure to frost threats, water to waste, labour to fuel costs (an item on everyone’s mind), not to mention supply imbalances and grower-winery relationships, and it’s an industry that calls for cool heads and agile feet.
It’s been heartening to talk to winemakers so excited about the quality of vintage 2026, at a time when we could all do with some good news. For those regions still in the thick of it, or coming out the other side, I hope the golden autumn conditions see you through.
There’s more good news in the feature written by Emma Jenkins MW this month, looking at some of the “singular” vineyards across New Zealand, sharing their fruit, their stories, and increasingly their name, with a widening wine community. “Rather than everyone needing to own land and infrastructure, it allows vineyards to be farmed well and fruit to be shared among producers who value the site,” says Alistair Gardner from Grava in the Wairarapa. “That spreads both the opportunity and the responsibility.”
Despite these good news stories, there’s no doubt that it’s tougher times in New Zealand wine, and that beyond the buzz of vintage there could be pain. New Zealand Winegrowers has updated its Health & Wellbeing page (nzwine.com/en/initiativesevents/health-and-wellbeing), including details for the Rural Support Trust, which offers a range of services, such as support for mental health and working on a plan to get through financial pressures. “We all need extra support from time to time, especially when times get tough,” says NZW’s Nicky Grandorge. “The important thing is to reach out if you need help and also check in on those around you.”
Sophie Preece
Editor