Altogether Unique: Wairarapa

"The Wairarapa now feels it is on the agenda for travellers and New Zealand visitors," says the Chief Winemaker and Viticulturist at On Giant's Shoulders in Martinborough. "Many businesses have been able to take the opportunity and feed off this curiosity into our wines and regional offerings."

When it comes to the region's role in the ecosystem of New Zealand wine, Wilco says wine and food lovers, along with tourists, are "lured" by the ease of getting around, and the quality offering at cellar doors and restaurants. "Then there are those who don't have a cellar door, or provide limited availability and do seated/guided tastings by appointment only, who are aiming for the more engaged and/or finer wine consumers," he says. "Either way, the quality of wine across the region has definitely lifted, mostly because of a new wave of trained people in the vineyards, wineries and cellar doors. But also because of heightened expectations from the consumer, which is the ultimate reason to be growing wine here."

Wilco says there's no doubt that the wine industry contributes to the appeal of the region, and to the influx of people who want to either live or visit here. "But it is definitely not just wine alone that makes the region unique and appealing. The proximity to Wellington, the coastline and mountains provide great diversity and cater for many different needs", he says.

The region is on "the up and up", with plenty of scope for winegrowing, but also for growth and diversification of other business opportunities. With that comes "a growing beacon of opportunity" in the likes of the arts, sports facilities, schools and job opportunities.

In Martinborough, where Wilco is based, there's a thriving tourism and hospitality industry. Subsequent Airbnb opportunities have tightened housing availability, but if the town can find a way to alleviate that pressure, Martinborough and the surrounding region could maintain a "healthy demographic mix", says Wilco. "Able to accommodate working people and visitors alike".

The Season

Wairarapa’s season kicked off with a very early frost, but came through with little damage, says Winemaker Wilco Lam. Good spring weather followed, with fairly warm and sunny days and not too much wind. Flowering in late November was fast and effective, he says. “We are looking at a good year, again, due to good weather.”

Rain in the first few weeks of the year was a “damper” on the season, “but most producers are well prepared for this and we are not in a critical time yet”, says Wilco. He expects fine weather to follow, “so we can finish the season on a high”.

Keeping powdery mildew pressure down was an early season focus, but from veraison onwards botrytis bunch rot becomes the main risk. “However, leaf plucking around the fruit zone alleviates most of the pressure for both,” says Wilco. “Also, any type of spray is easily targeted, and wind and sun keep the berries and bunches dry. Thanks to experience, knowledge, and setups for pest and disease management, most growers are now well equipped and prepared for adverse weather conditions at this time of the year,” he says. “The disease pressure is heightened, but not yet threatening. I cannot deny it elevates our own stress levels.”

Labour supply in Wairarapa is still below pre-Covid-19 levels, and has proved a challenge in recent years. “However, some of the larger producers anticipated this and were able to invest in mechanisation for this year,” says Wilco. “That allowed some of the labour to be freed up for smaller producers, so it hasn’t been as much of a headache as last year. We are very much looking forward to welcoming travellers and oversees winemakers back into the labour pool again, since they bring another dimension too.”