Biodynamic seed sown at a young age

“I was eight or nine at the time and remember Dad being right into making his own biodynamic sprays,” says the vineyard manager of Millton Vineyards and Winery at Manutuke, near Gisborne.

“He used to make a brew out of old fish carcasses and seaweed. You can imagine what that smelt like! I recall mum ordering him to leave his clothes outside the door,” says Grant. “Looking back, although I was pretty young, what dad was doing must have had an impact on me. I saw the health of the trees and saw that the smelly sprays worked. I don’t think dad ever used chemical sprays. So the biodynamic seed was sown in me at a young age,” says 30-year-old Grant who has worked for biodynamic vineyard pioneers, James and Annie Millton since 2002.

At the age of 10, he went on a family trip to the Gold Coast and the Hunter Valley. Most kids of that age were into the theme parks and beaches but for Grant, the highlight was visiting vineyards and listening to what the viticulturists and winemakers were talking about.

“I was fascinated by the whole process – seeing the grapes growing on the vines and then seeing the wine in the bottles.”

He didn’t think much more about the wine industry until he left school in 2001.

“There were two options on the table: a building apprenticeship or the viticulture and winemaking course at Tairawhiti Polytechnic. I chose the latter.

“As soon as I got stuck into the practical side of the course, I thought ‘This is for me – I’ve found my passion in life’. Again, it was the process I fell in love with. We had our own vines and followed the cycle through from pruning to winemaking.”

At the end of the course, Grant got a pruning job at Milltons and then a full-time position in the winery and vineyard.

“I’ve been here 12 years now and every time I think of leaving and doing the big O/E, James and Annie offer me another position.”

However, he has worked overseas in that time.

“When I was 24, I decided it was time to move on so I went to work for Cullen Winery, a biodynamic vineyard in the Margaret River area of Western Australia.

“But when I got there, it didn’t have the right feeling and we hardly ever saw the vineyard owner.” He also did three vintages at Masut, an organic winery in California. 

In 2009, Grant spent time at Taruna, a Rudolf Steiner-based training centre in Hawke’s Bay where he studied organic and biodynamic theory and practice.

“It was really cool and something I had always wanted to do, seeing I was working with New Zealand’s biodynamic pioneers.”

Grant took over as manager of the five Millton vineyards in 2011, on the cusp of the two worst harvests James and Annie had ever experienced.

“2011 and 2012 were a huge challenge but all our hard work and biodynamic practices paid off. Our fruit held up better against botrytis and slip skin than others in district, which was very encouraging. The conditions in 2012 were appalling. We had 28 days of rain in March and April that year. It was relentless. Then along came 2013 which was the best-ever vintage, followed by 2014 which was also very good but with challenges from weather and disease. 

“I learned a lot in 2014 especially regarding the importance of timing jobs in the vineyard.”

In addition to 30 hectares of grapes, Milltons have 10 hectares in cattle, red shorthorns from Taruna.

“Cattle are a hugely important factor in biodynamics,” he says.

“They look after etheric energy and are very grounded animals. They produce the manure for our compost teas, imparting this energy into our teas and soils.”

Bees are also very important in a biodynamic vineyard.

And with the current push for sustainability in New Zealand, Grant believes Gisborne is “a huge step along the way” as there’s no need for irrigation due to the soil’s fertility and ability to hold water. 

“Exciting things are happening here – there’s lots of enthusiasm and new varieties.”